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I'm getting back into Rotax Light next year and im looking at getting a Kosmic, now i know Tony Kart is the same chassis (and $1500 cheaper) but i've been told there are a few Differences, can anyone tell me if there is and what they are or what chassis you would prefer

 

Cheers

Tags: Kosmic, kart, rotax, tony

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Is far as I know Both chassis are Identical except, for the sticker kit and being different colours. I didnt realise that their price was so different thou.
there not identical greg smith get the money for the tony and remo gets it for the kosmic
Isnt the lynux the 32mm chassis for kosmic? I think you mean the mecuary.

tony kart RACER EVR > kosmic MERCURY

should be no difference in price, or very little.

I have got both these Chassis and they are 100% identical, they both even cracked in the same spot. where the steering bracket meets the frame. make sure you put a coupling on both sides on the steering column to take the pressure of the bottom braket. The later model has a different bend and should stop this from happening. Either one you choose you will love, Greg Smith was very helpful when I asked for set up advice and has given me a better understanding of what to change and when to change as track conditions change!

 


TK Kripton = Kosmic Lynx (32mm chassis)

TK racer = Kosmic Mercury



Brock ten Bensel said:
Isnt the lynux the 32mm chassis for kosmic? I think you mean the mecuary.
Thanks Mr Green and the lynx us 32 mercury is 30, I wanna go to the stiffer chassis, suits my driving style better, plus I drove one too, hence my interest

Same chassis.

 

I recently priced both from every distributor in NSW, the prices for a ready to race package, with Rotax, were within $500 of each other across the board (3 distributors were within $100).

Brock, I have an 08 EVR - what do you mean by "coupling"?  Can you illustrate or maybe post pics?

 

Cheers!

Chris

Brock Green said:

I have got both these Chassis and they are 100% identical, they both even cracked in the same spot. where the steering bracket meets the frame. make sure you put a coupling on both sides on the steering column to take the pressure of the bottom braket. The later model has a different bend and should stop this from happening.

Were u running the battery on this bracket? That is the only cause of them cracking there, we run our batteries on the left hand side of the seat.

Brock Green said:

I have got both these Chassis and they are 100% identical, they both even cracked in the same spot. where the steering bracket meets the frame. make sure you put a coupling on both sides on the steering column to take the pressure of the bottom braket. The later model has a different bend and should stop this from happening. Either one you choose you will love, Greg Smith was very helpful when I asked for set up advice and has given me a better understanding of what to change and when to change as track conditions change!

 

 

If you consider what creates the pressure on the bracket you will realise why it breaks there - and placing a battery at that point with further rigid fixing points only adds to the problem but is not the only cause ..

 

 

I've never run the battery there and I know of at least 3 others in both 30 and 32 mm chassis that have had the same problem! Why has OTK changed the bracket if there was no problem?

Joel Smith said:
Were u running the battery on this bracket? That is the only cause of them cracking there, we run our batteries on the left hand side of the seat.

Brock Green said:

I have got both these Chassis and they are 100% identical, they both even cracked in the same spot. where the steering bracket meets the frame. make sure you put a coupling on both sides on the steering column to take the pressure of the bottom braket. The later model has a different bend and should stop this from happening. Either one you choose you will love, Greg Smith was very helpful when I asked for set up advice and has given me a better understanding of what to change and when to change as track conditions change!

 

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