I just spent the past hour or so trying to replace the brushes in an X-30 starter motor. Anyone got any tips on keeping the brushes and springs in place while I slip the (coil?) in place?
I got so frustrated I almost threw the thing at the wall...........thought better of it and got on here to ask for some advice........
Not a 2 person job, but not easy.
You need some way to hold the brushes in place while you replace the armature assembly. It is tricky, but I recall using sharpened matchsticks wedged in between the brushes and the brush housings to hold the brushes in place until the armature was partially in place (enough to hold the brushes in), then slid them out. Took a few tries, a good deal of patience and about 45 mins of dicking around, but it worked in the end.
Another way might be to use some tape with a long tab, and then pull the tab (and the tape) off once the armature is in place. Not sure if this will work but you get the idea.
It's been a while since I did this but I am pretty sure this method (or your version of it) should work.
Or you could just pull the rotor out of the outer body housing and insert it into the front assy first, thus providing clear access to the brush carrier. A fine flat blade driver will suffice... There is just sufficient play to enable one brush at a time to be pulled out over the commutator. Then... fit the rear/outer housing. Did it for the first time recently between sessions at Darwin, hadn't seen one before, single handed but mad panic none the less ( those that were there will understand the comment far too well ;-).
I noticed that the new brushes have a tab swaged over the braid prior to the spot weld to provide mechanical support. This makes sense given that our unit failed at the junction of the pos term and the spot weld for the braid.
The IAME user manual (MAN-043/B) for the X30, pages 37 < 41, details using two "U" shaped bits of wire to hold the brushes in place. A couple of bits of 20g piano wire will do the trick or heavy paper clips bent to the correct shape.
NEVER put silicon based RTV on the braids. It can cause the carbon brush to form a layer of silicon carbide!
HI DANIEL, THIS IS HOW I DO IT. (TURBAN TECHNOLOGY) MATEY. I LEARNT THIS IN INDIA. WHEN I WAS RACING ELEPHANTS . JUST TAKE 2 THIN LONG CARBY TIES IN YOUR HAND--PRESS ONE CARBON BRUSH IN--TIE IT WITH CABLE TIE, THAN DO NEXT ONE SAME--DROP THE ARMATURE IN THE HOLE--PULL THE CABLES OFF-- USE TWEEZER OR SMALL SCREW DRIVER TO PUSH CARBON BRUSHES AWAY FROM BEARINGS AND YOU HOME. SIMPLE AYE MATEY???????? ONE MAN JOB. GOOD LUCK. TIGER.
I used a thin piece of plastic (cut from a cordial/soft drink bottle) to use as a guide for the amiture bearing and commutator. Bit fiddly and took a bit of patience but is still a one person job. I also put some "silicon" (Non conductive) to stop the bruch wires from viabrating. On my RL the stater lasted almost 2 years with out an issue having this done.
This would have been handy 6 years ago. I have just gotten back into karting after a 3 year break and will suss this out for future reference.
Joe Torcasio said:
After my starter went, there was a fuss on how hard and frustrating it was. I googled like I do with most things and found the best and easiest way to ever do it. About a 10-15 minute job. 5 mins according to video. Heres the link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-1ftV1dMNg