Australian Karting Forum

Starter Motor problem?

Hi Everyone,

Last week at newcastle, i tried to start on the grid but the starter motor didn't even kick over. A guy at the track hit it with a spanner a few times, and then it finally decided to turn over.

Just wondering what this means....even today when I was running it, it would sometimes start turning or not turn at all (as though there was 0 power going to it). Is there something in my starter motor that has become dislodged?

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Permalink Reply by wayne bower on February 16, 2012 at 18:47

thanx, mik. you are a wealth of knowledge & a great crg/fireball ambassador, as phil also.

the disturbing thing is that the spark i am seeing when i test with the plug out, is so faint. that it is obvious that the engine has no chance of firering with such a little flash. i tried numerous plugs, but the lack of spark was the same on all plugs.

i will take the kart to newy with intentions to race it, but will locate a external starter around the pit area early in the morning. if i don't have any luck starting the motor, i will switch to the kt11/rotax.

the wiring loom i have has no relay.

Permalink Reply by wayne bower on February 16, 2012 at 19:28

chris that is very kind of you.i may take you up on the phone call. thanx, wayne

Permalink Reply by Chris Sunter on February 16, 2012 at 21:11

No prob mate, any time between 6:30 am and 9 pm

Permalink Reply by Michael Hazelton on February 17, 2012 at 8:19

Wayne,

"the engine has no chance of firering with such a little flash"

Sorry Wayne, but completely untrue.

The old ignition (Opama brand) has a weak spark compared to the Yamaha's Opama systems. All the high revving kart engines have a weak spark. The open ignitions (on F100, KZ2, etc) like PVL and Selletra have a weak spark. High compression engines do not need a strong spark, they almost "diesel" combust anyway.

Your problem is still most likely starter motor related if you have the gen 2 loom. Take Chris up on his offer. I am sure he would accept some of your years of karting knowledge as payment ;)

If you want to go to the 14.8v LiPo option I can make a conversion kit for you no problems.

Mik

Permalink Reply by Chris Sunter on February 17, 2012 at 16:33

How much weight saving is there in the LiPo upgrade Mick? I may have to look into this.

Permalink Reply by wayne bower on February 17, 2012 at 18:02

mik, is it just a matter of fitting a LIPO battery, or do you have to add extra componants & wireing.

i have noticed that in the usa (banana hobby) there is a whole range of LIPO battery options, seem to be reasonable price also.

i have been told that the charger is costly, is that true?

my mobile no: 0403067334 you can price me that option, as long as it will fix the problem. wayne

Permalink Reply by Chris Sunter on February 17, 2012 at 20:01

Wayne, the Lipo is more of a bandaid fix if you will. Most of the Problems I have seen are either from the bendix or most likely the braid to the brushes fatiguing.

I find that puting a dob of silastic on the braid to the brushes and also cable tying the starter lead to the starter body both have helped the system hang together longer.

I think the Lipo will aid in cold cranking ability which is handy with the new electrics as it will not start with a flat battery, not even with the use of the external starter.

Of cause Correct me if im wrong

Permalink Reply by Michael Hazelton on February 20, 2012 at 8:03

LiPO is the answer to the poorly engineered starting system on a Fireball

Chris, I call your repairs to the ill designed brushes and bendix "band-aid" fixes. Depend which way you look at it no? Cranking with a LiPo cannot be compared to anything else. You have to see it. Twice as fast cranking would be an understatement. The LiPo will save you around 2kg compared to the standard battery.

Wayne, I will give you a call this week after work no probs. But to answer your question, NO mods needed if you dont want to. I can make the adapter to bolt the batery terminals to so you can swap back to the standard (you never will unless the LiPo dies and you dont have a spare) or you can solder the conector staright onto your lead (or I can no probs) or I can do a new loom for an exchange rate for yours. I have just ordered some more batteries and connectors to do more looms, The chargers are a lot cheaper now.

I will get some exact pricing and post it up for all to see, but I should be able to put the kit together for under $200.

If anyone is going to Manning this weekend, feel free to come up and check out my LiPo setup.

Mik

Permalink Reply by Michael Hazelton on February 20, 2012 at 8:07

One (there are many!!!) of my issues with the new ignition is the FACT the module needs power to start. It also needs a certain number of sparks per second to remain "charged" - meaning that if you lock the brakes for too long or let revs drop too much, the engine will stall.

Chris Sunter said:

Wayne, the Lipo is more of a bandaid fix if you will. Most of the Problems I have seen are either from the bendix or most likely the braid to the brushes fatiguing.

I find that puting a dob of silastic on the braid to the brushes and also cable tying the starter lead to the starter body both have helped the system hang together longer.

I think the Lipo will aid in cold cranking ability which is handy with the new electrics as it will not start with a flat battery, not even with the use of the external starter.

Of cause Correct me if im wrong

Starter Motor problem?

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